Canada’s first lady of leather brought a fierce, provocative show to the black-floored runway at the Liberty Grand as part of her LiquidLux 2007 collection.
Models were adorned with a shock of faux fringe that grazed heavily-lined eyes while their snug patent leather garments shone in the dramatic, precise lighting.
The black leather bubble coats were an acquired taste to be sure, but the audience audibly cheered for the copper sequin kite dress, a standout disco diva throwback that every hardcore party girl will want in her closet.
The throbbing soundtrack and detached framed opening, bearing Camilleri’s logo, all added to a visually arresting display of a fetishistic amount of that pricey pelt.
Camilleri paid due attention to her other muse, fur, showing wool dresses with mink and fox details and raccoon coats.
Women confident enough to squeeze into the patent leather creations would certainly make an entrance wearing Camilleri’s crocodile jacket with taffeta skinny pants and chiffon tie – consider it the power suit re-imagined.
A comparatively toned down collection by Toronto-based Joeffer Caoc saw a sprinkling of cobalt, lime green and the brightest magenta – vivid gems in a sea of black.
Caoc revealed his approach to dressing women comes from a meticulously mathematical mind, helping to explain the inspiration behind Theorem, the name for his Fall 2007 collection. But don’t confuse his precision with staid looks. On the contrary, Caoc’s ability to tuck material so it puckers just right or fold a dress so that is gathers at the sides, makes for a trademark look that’s modern and classic at the same time.
“The method of draping and fabric drafting was quite precise,” said an enthusiastic and collected Caoc backstage. “The fabrics, we chose because we wanted to draw the silhouettes really close to the body. Whenever I work, I look at things really methodically.”
His fondness for details was apparent throughout his feminine collection, which exuded an effortless airiness despite Caoc’s preference for the shade that never goes out of style.
“Even though it was a very dark collection, I didn’t want it to be a brooding collection. I wanted it to be uplifting, so I used happier colours. And they also really make the black pop.”
Exploiting silks and jersey to their elegant limit, Caoc also slipped in the occasional organza note, whether it was folded under a skirt to enhance texture or added as insets into a pleated jacket.
Knee-length dresses and high-waisted skirts were form-fitting to say the least, but never crossed the line into sex kitten territory. So just who does Caoc envision as the woman underneath the clothes?
“ I always dream of this woman in my head, this character, so I think sometimes it’s a reflection of what’s going on in my life. But we always start with the previous season and the woman I design for really looks for the tailoring and a softness.”
While Camilleri titillated with wall-to-wall leather and Caoc preferred to keep things pretty with a mind towards structure, both designers made it clear that if you stick with black in 2007, you’re halfway there.
