  Craig McDonald stepped into the head winemaking position at Andrew Peller Limited’s Niagara operations last year. (Courtesy of Joseph Chan). From left to right: Hillebrand Winery 2010 Trius Pinot Grigio, 2010 Trius Rosé and 2010 Trius Sauvignon Blanc. (hillebrand.com) |
Fans of Trius were wary to hear the label would have a change in leadership, but their fears are quickly being alleviated. Craig McDonald stepped into the head winemaking position at Andrew Peller Limited's Niagara operations last year, filling the vacancy left by his close friend and fellow Aussie Darryl Brooker, and new releases from Hillebrand's premium label are the clearest indication so far that anything is different behind the scenes.
Since taking the reins, McDonald has focused much of his attention on the Trius portfolio, adding a Pinot Grigio and a Rosé to the family of wines that was launched in 1989 with the inaugural vintage of Trius Red.
"We see Trius as our national brand," says McDonald, who recently introduced the wines to the Manitoba market and will travel to Alberta to promote the line later this month. The Trius lineup is available in Ontario at LCBO and Vineyards wine outlets as well as at Hillebrand Winery in Virgil, Ont.
The range grew from a Bordeaux-style red blend, a classically made sparkling wine and a collection of Chardonnays to include an expanded family of varietal wines, such as Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.
The top-level wines, including Trius Red, Trius Grand Red and the sparkling Trius Brut, have an established identity, according to McDonald. Other members of the extended family, however, tend to lack uniformity -- what winemakers often refer to as a house style.
The new Trius Rosé is a harmonious blend of Shiraz and Merlot from the 2010 vintage. The peppery character and fruit of the Shiraz is a winning match for the ripe strawberry notes provided by the Merlot. A small production wine, it will almost exclusively be available at the winery and its onsite restaurant.
The Rosé fits the new soft, approachable style for Trius that McDonald has coordinated across the range. The Dry Riesling is rounder and fruitier than recent examples. The Chardonnay has switched from an unoaked style to a more complex and interesting white that sees a portion aged in French oak barrels.
"It's a better wine for it," McDonald explains. He's right.
The new look Trius wines offer a uniformly accessible personality across the collection. Each showcases the characteristic of the grape varieties, with an emphasis on appealing fruit flavours and soft texture. It's a winning formula that yields wines that are relaxed, smooth and generous.
WINES OF THE WEEK:
Hillebrand Winery 2010 Trius Pinot Grigio (3.5 out of 5)
Niagara Peninsula $15.95
McDonald carries his interest in Pinot Grigio over from his previous posting at Creekside Estate Winery. The debut Trius model presents crisp, refreshing character with a generous core of honeyed, peachy fruit. hillebrand.com (Winery)
Hillebrand Winery 2010 Trius Rosé (4 out of 5)
Niagara-on-the-Lake, Niagara Peninsula $15.95
The inaugural Trius Rosé was made to be a summery selection for visitors to the winery restaurant, but the pressure will be on to turn this delicious pink wine into a larger production next year. Peppery Shiraz and berrylicious Merlot yield a perfect everyday wine for warm weather enjoyment. hillebrand.com (Winery)
Hillebrand Winery 2010 Trius Sauvignon Blanc (4 out of 5)
Niagara Peninsula $13.95 (221804)
The new vintage of Trius Sauvignon Blanc is more focused and fruity than last year's award-winning effort. A brisk lemony flavour takes centre stage, making this a stellar white for the summer. hillebrand.com (Winery/LCBO)
