  This fresh white strikes the right balance between Sauvignon Blanc’s grassy/herbal side and its zesty citrus side. (Courtesy of Santa Rita) |
A famous frog once complained that’s it’s not easy being green. With a flavour profile that suggests green pepper, grass, mint and other fresh herbs, Sauvignon Blanc is a wine that shares Kermit’s lament.
Experience has shown that Sauvignon Blanc’s vibrant and intense “green” aromas and flavours make it a love-or-hate prospect. My own education in wine saw me gravitate to off-dry, refreshing Rieslings, round, buttery Chardonnays and even spicy and exotic Gewurztraminers and Viogniers before I came to understand and appreciate what Sauvignon Blanc brought to the table.
The turning point came in Chile where passionate producers were quick to pour and promote the grassy, vibrant styles of Sauvignon Blanc they were crafting from coastal vineyards. Some of these bold whites had a citric snap that hit the olfactory senses like an upper cut — they were so forceful that they instantly commanded one’s attention.
Wine writer Billy Munnelly compares this sort of wine to extreme sports like luge — it’s a thrill ride for your senses to be sure.
In tasting after tasting, I came to look forward to the flavour rush that came from expressive wines from the Casablanca Valley, Leyda and San Antonio. These are wines that would scare some people as they don’t cuddle or soothe your tastebuds, which is why wineries also craft inexpensive wines from warmer regions that offered a good dose of citrus fruit (ruby grapefruit mostly) to offset Sauvignon Blanc’s more intense characteristics.
Beyond Chile, I found other attention-getting examples. South Africa is also exploring more marginal regions — Elim, in the distant south being the most extreme example — in a bid to fashion more intense and zest Sauvignon Blanc.
These modern examples also made me look back towards the showy, aggressively grassy versions from New Zealand that started the resurgence for Sauvignon Blanc as well as more traditional models from Sancerre in France’s Loire Valley. I wish we also could enjoy bottles from northern Italy and southern Austria on a more frequent basis — there’s terrific versions being fashioned all over the world.
At this time of year, I find myself opening more and more Sauvignon Blanc. It’s fresh and green character set my winter-weary sights on the onset Spring and the approaching warmth of the sun. A glass of Sauvignon Blanc offers a burst of refreshment that’s a welcome tonic to a grey February day.
Christopher Waters is editor of Vines Magazine. He can be reached at chris@vinesmag.com.
Wine of the Week:
HHH+
Viña Santa Rita 2009 120 Sauvignon Blanc
Central Valley, Chile
$10.45 (023606)
Santa Rita is a top Chilean producer that offers great quality across its vast portfolio, which ranges from its inexpensive 120 label to ultra-premium reserve bottlings like its Casa Real Cabernet Sauvignon. This fresh white strikes the right balance between Sauvignon Blanc’s grassy/herbal side and its zesty citrus side. It’s a well-made, dry wine with easy-to-appreciate refreshment and flavour.
