  All five of Harviestoun's Ola Dubh beers are seen in this image, with the 40 in front. (Aonghus Kealy/QMI Agency) |
Five “expressions” of beautiful whiskey-kissed Imperial porter Ola Dubh have arrived in Canada, but the real question remains - which one makes the best holiday gift?
The good news is, you can’t go wrong with any of them.
Ola Dubh (“olah-doov,” meaning black oil in Gaelic) is brewed and aged for six months in scotch casks by a brewery called Harviestoun in the Scottish hamlet of Hillfoots Village. The casks were previously used to mature 12-, 16-, 18-, 30- and 40-year-old single-malt scotches produced by world renowned distillery Highland Park.
These beers are deep dark brown, but look like black motor oil in your glass; they’re oily, soft on the tongue, with extraordinary flavour and not a lot of body. And they hit a wine-like tone when poured into your glass.
But they don’t come cheap.
The suggested retail costs of these 330-ml treasures, with 8% alcohol by volume, are as follows:
- 12: $5.95
- 16: $6.95
- 18: $7.95
- 30: $14.95
- 40: $18.95
All five of these beers are meant to be enjoyed as a one-off by the fire, as a dessert beer or a good way to cap a night of reminiscing.
Consider the 12 as a template for the other four, with some notes on the differences:
12 Days of Christmas: The 12 pours a fluffy beige head that tops my fat chalice glass perfectly, finishing with three inches of foam. Its nose has smoky peat with sweet fruitiness and white wine, molasses and subtle wet coffee grains. The roasted malt brings forward dark and milk chocolate, raisins, dates, coffee, molasses, toast notes … and a sweet orange citrus flavour.
A nutty dark chocolate and dark roast coffee finish linger, lasting over an enjoyable minute.
A thin layer of creaminess remains after each mouthful. It has a slightly drying, grainy mouthfeel, similar to a cold cup of French-pressed coffee. The 8% alcohol isn’t obvious until just over the half-point.
Sweet Little 16: Molasses, dark roast cofee and alcohol on the nose. It’s more earthy with more obvious bitter hops. Less complex but a little easier to drink, this might even be too easy for a high-alcohol beer. Don't say I didn't warn you ...
18 and Life: It has a smokey heathery peat, coffee and dark chocolate aroma on the pour nose. That grainy effect isn’t evident in this one, which is velvet soft.
The smokey, dark chocolate finish lingers, but its hoppy bitterness is a little overpowering halfway through. I took a water break to help my tastebuds recover and discovered black licorice in the nose and flavour, with oakiness and nuttiness.
30 Rocks: I switch from a whiskey glass to a regular chalice to pack in the flavour, and admire its head full of thick milkshake-like beige bubbles.
There’s that fruity nose again, different in every expression, with molasses and coffee.
Some wonderful toastiness, and that lingering dark chocolate finish is less bitter than the 18, but lasts a little longer. With a silky soft mouthfeel, this is outstanding.
The orange oil and dark chocolate make me think of a Terry’s chocolate orange ball — smack, crack and peel — plus oak, pine, hazelnuts, amaretto, ovaltine and black licorice.
Lordy, lordy, look who has 40: It’s the most balanced and easiest to drink, with the softest mouthfeel. There is no questioning its excellence as a beer. But I would personally be happiest to find the more flavourful 30 in my stocking this Christmas. (Hint, hint.)
Harviestoun recommends that you pair these beers with devilled kidneys, mackerel pate, or oat cakes with Cheshire cheese.
But for some reason, I keep thinking that they would all be excellent with plain cheesecake.
Chimo!
NOTE: All five “expressions” are available in Ontario; 12, 16, 18 & 30 are available in Alberta; the 12 is available in Manitoba.
Aonghus Kealy is Sun Media’s national beer columnist. E-mail him at aonghus.kealy@sunmedia.ca or follow him on Twitter @mysuds.
